First the situation, then the visit
Anyone who arrives in Montecatini expecting a fully working spa town is often disappointed. The company Terme di Montecatini S.p.A., based at Viale Verdi 41 and, according to the press, about two-thirds controlled by the Regione Toscana and one-third by the town council, is in a concordato preventivo, a creditors' arrangement procedure before the Court of Pistoia. The auctions to sell the whole complex found no buyers. According to the local press, the Regione has set aside funds to buy the Tettuccio, Regina and Excelsior, but the sales are on hold pending approval from the Soprintendenza, the heritage authority.
The practical result is a spa town running at half capacity: the Tettuccio and the Terme Redi are open, while Excelsior is closed and, as far as we can tell, so are Leopoldine, Torretta, Tamerici, Regina and La Salute.
What is open at the Montecatini thermal baths
Tettuccio
This is the emblematic establishment, on Viale Verdi, rebuilt between 1916 and 1928 to a design by Ugo Giovannozzi. Inside you'll find the ceramic panels by Basilio Cascella and the historic springs, including Tettuccio, Regina, Leopoldina and Rinfresco. This is where the drinking cure takes place, in other words where you drink the waters, according to the official page from 08:00 to 12:00 and from 16:00 to 19:00; it is also where tourist visits run and where events, talks and festivals are held, which keep the building alive even for those not taking the cure.
Two caveats. The agreement that entrusted the health services and tourist visits to the Red Cross has ended, and it is not clear who runs them today. And after a plane tree fell on the loggia, the Tettuccio reopened without its park.
Terme Redi
At Viale Marconi 2 is the treatment establishment: balneotherapy, mud treatments, inhalations and the pool. The Excelsior's wellness services have also moved here. It is the right place for those who come for a cure, often for thermal treatments covered by the Italian health service, rather than for those looking for a day of relaxation.
Prices: why you won't find them here
The official price list page is marked "being updated", and the opening hours page dates from a period that is now long past. The figures circulating on blogs and forums are not confirmed. That is why you won't find an official price list here: ask for the rate on the infoline, +39 0572 7781, or on WhatsApp at 334 664 9087, or write to info@termemontecatini.it. It is also the quickest way to find out whether visits to the Tettuccio are running on the day you are interested in.
What visitors say
Opinions are mixed. Architecture lovers are struck by the Tettuccio; many others speak of a somewhat faded charm, closed buildings and services that fall short of the name's reputation. On GetYourGuide, at our last check, entry to a thermal pool in Montecatini had 3.4 stars from 130 reviews, a low score that confirms the picture: if you are considering it, read the recent comments first. Also watch out for reviews of the Grand Hotel Tettuccio: it is a hotel, not the thermal establishment.
The same platform also sells a visit to an olive grove in Montecatini Terme with an oil tasting, which is much better reviewed and pairs well with a half day here. Partner prices change, and we update them regularly.
Montecatini beyond the baths
Since 2021 the town has been part of the UNESCO site of the Great Spa Towns of Europe, eleven spa towns in seven countries: Montecatini is the only Italian one. It is worth a stroll along its avenues and past its Liberty, or Art Nouveau, buildings even if you are not taking any cure.
It is well worth going up to Montecatini Alto on the funicular, opened in 1898 in the presence of Giuseppe Verdi. Its two cars, Gigio and Gigia, climb about a kilometre, with a height difference of over 200 metres, in about 8 minutes. It runs in season, usually from spring to early November, with departures every half hour; timetables and fares should be checked with the operator. At the top you'll find the old village and a wide view over the Valdinievole.
Montecatini is easy to reach by train: from Firenze Santa Maria Novella the regional service towards Lucca and Viareggio takes about 45–55 minutes to Montecatini Terme-Monsummano. You can combine it with half a day in Lucca.
How to plan half a day
A realistic plan, without a car:
- Morning: train from Florence and a walk towards Viale Verdi. If you want to taste the waters, the drinking cure at the Tettuccio takes place in the morning.
- Late morning: a visit to the Tettuccio, if it is running that day, with its loggias, ceramics and spring halls.
- Lunch and afternoon: the funicular up to Montecatini Alto, lunch in the village and a leisurely ride back down.
- Return: train back to Florence, or carry on to Lucca on the same line.
Allow for the possibility that something may be closed: that is why a phone call the evening before is not excessive caution.
Nearby alternatives
If you are looking for a spa with modern pools, a few kilometres away at Monsummano Terme there is Grotta Giusti, with its thermal cave and a pool open every day from 10:00 to 19:00. It is a private facility, different in style and clientele: more wellness, less history. For open-air springs and free pools, southern Tuscany offers much more, from Saturnia to the Val d'Orcia.
Who it suits and who it doesn't
Montecatini suits lovers of spa architecture and history, people following a course of thermal treatment, and anyone who wants an easy half day from Florence, with the Tettuccio and the funicular. It is not for those looking for a modern spa or a day at the pools: the company's current situation makes it a place to visit for what it once was, more than for the service it offers today.
Reviews and related pages
To choose the right thermal baths, compare Saturnia and the Maremma and the guide to thermal baths in Tuscany. Among the reviews: the Terme di Saturnia and GetYourGuide, which sells a few thermal entry tickets in the area.